LACE COLLAR
Cotton, early 19th century. Van
LACE COLLAR
Cotton, early 19th century. Van
L350mm / l 340mm
Lace collar that could be placed on a chasuble.
There was no shortage of raw materials: wool from the mountains, cotton from the valleys, silk, first from China and later cultivated on the plateau, or red carmine dye from the cochineal insect.
A textile craft industry for use by people and their homes was necessary to counter the harsh and contrasting weather conditions.
The Armenians quickly acquired a reputation for their skill. “They weave the finest and most beautiful carpets in the world"", wrote Marco Polo in the 13th century.
Long before that, however, Greek and Arab historians spoke of Armenian carpets often given as gifts or that formed part of the spoils of war paid to the victors.
Embroideries on silk, velvet, cotton or wool, had very similar patterns to those of the carpets. There are animal, vegetable or geometrical motifs.
The lace ""oya"" is also an integral part of the textile arts. In the form of bands or little mats with radiating, cruciform or geometrical patterns, they are used to adorn secular or liturgical clothing, or to decorate the churches.
Embroidery and lace are also used to decorate the simplest clothes and are not reserved for luxury items as they are elsewhere.
Every woman in an Armenian household is skilled in needlework and the tradition is passed on from one generation to the next with the bride's trousseau.
Fabrics and embroideries, enhanced with silver ornaments and jewels adorn costumes, especially those of women, in Armenia. The men, who many times have found themselves in the minority of their country of residence, have often preferred to adapt to local dress customs, while the women, at home, have perpetuated the tradition of Armenian costume.
Frédéric Fringhian